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Raising the REDD Flag of Victory by Aaron Kirby-Alford A revolution occurred in Napa in the early 1990s with Yountville at its center. It was a revolution without red flags and street fighting, but it was revolution nevertheless. The international gravitational pull created, in a short period of time, a vast array of restaurants, which collectively shifted the gastronomic caliber of American cuisine skywards. Redd is a sleek and polished loft-like aesthetic set in central Yountville. The décor is unapologetically minimal and thoroughly modern. It's near-clinical setting enables chef Richard Reddington to practice the exacting science of pleasuring the palette. The subtle textures and nuanced variations echo loudly in a space focused upon luxuriating the palette. Well-executed versions of familiar dishes with unexpected twists keep the guests surprised. Try a Pacific Yellowfin tuna tartare with avocado topped with chili oil finished with Asian pear - or, a sashimi of hamachi, with sticky rice and edamame and layered with a lime ginger sauce, both of which are exemplified by a Graff Family Viognier - A opulent fragrant crisp wine full of ripe peaches and apricots with undertones of toasty vanilla vibrant finish. This is a wine rich with fruit and opulence and prepares the palette for richer dishes such as a traditional butternut squash and pumpkin ravioli, which mixes sage butter with a sweetly aromatic pomegranate reduction; a Grof Degenfeld Fortissimo Tokaj from Hungary provides an unexpected but delightful pairing with its inner youthful harmony of sweetness and acidity. A cold foie gras terrine is matched with local huckleberries and crowned with a toasted nestle of pistachios and is accompanied by a rich brioche matched by a pairing of the nectar-like Donnafugata Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria – a sweet wine as sophisticated as those from Sauternes, which will forever obliterate one's misconceptions of sweet wines from Sicily. Revisiting a culinary classic is a glazed pork belly with apple puree, burdock and soy caramel and matched with an excellently-structured Freeman Vineyards Pinot Noir; aromas of white pepper, wild berry and raspberry that carry over to the palate in an intense, concentrated manner. Similarly, a traditional duck confit with lentils is delicately balanced by foie gras meatballs and completed with sherry vinaigrette. Bigger dishes hit even harder: A prime New York steak shares the plate with short ribs and locally dry-farmed potatoes, rising from a red wine jus matches well with the deeply spiced, richly textured Fisticuffs Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that offsets deep black current and ripe cherry flavors with firm tannins. Few resist dessert, and here is why: a toasty hazelnut Gianduja that melds into a peanut honeycomb parfait is a culinary trap set in motion. If Hazelnuts don't turn you on, try a sweet and rustic corn fritter that is finished with seasonal huckleberries and served with delicately balanced vanilla-corn ice cream and coupled nicely with a delicately sweet and slightly fizzy Saracco Moscato d'Asti. - Aaron Kirby-Alford |